In this article, I will tell you all you need to know about Lalibela, Ethiopia. For information on other places to visit in this amazing country, as well as travel tips, please read my Complete Ethiopia Travel Guide.
In this article
Getting to Lalibela
Domestic Flight
Ethiopia has a surprisingly extensive network of domestic flights operated by Ethiopian Airlines, Africa’s most respected airline. There is one flight a day from the capital Addis Ababa to Lalibela. The flight takes 55 minutes and costs around $US210 for a round trip. It is also possible to fly to and from Bahir Dar, Aksum and Gondar, although these services are less frequent.
Find your flights
By Bus
There is a huge Chinese-funded road building programme ongoing in Ethiopia at the moment. Once it is completed, journey times between the main cities will be drastically reduced. For now, though, getting to Lalibela by road is a bit of a mission!
The bus service between Addis Ababa and Lalibela takes two days with an overnight stop en route.
Travelling from anywhere else by public transport to Lalibela usually involves getting to Woldia first and then transferring to a minibus for the arduous three-hour drive to Lalibela along unmade roads.
Getting Around in Lalibela
The vast majority of Ethiopians walk everywhere and often expect others to do the same! Hence, there is no public transport in Lalibela. If you are travelling independently rather than as part of a group tour, you will have to rely on one of a limited number of taxis or do as the locals do and walk! This may not be a comfortable option in the heat of the day, especially as Lalibela sits at altitude and the town itself is very hilly.
Things to Do and See in Lalibela
Visit the Rock-Hewn Churches
Of course, this is going to be at the top of the list for any visitor to Lalibela – indeed, it is the reason most people make the effort to come to this remote town.
Ethiopia was one of the earliest nations to adopt Christianity in the first half of the fourth century, and its historical roots go back to biblical times. The churches themselves date from the seventh to thirteenth centuries, with most Ethiopians attributing their construction to King Gebre Mesquel Lalibela (1181 – 1221). It is said that he designed the churches and other major buildings in the town to be a symbolic representation of Jerusalem. He spent time in the Holy Land in his youth and wanted to build a ‘New Jerusalem’ as his capital city in Ethiopia following the capture of the original Jerusalem by Muslim warriors in 1187. Each church was carved from a single piece of rock to symbolise spirituality and humility.
Lalibela remained Ethiopia’s capital for over one hundred years. The rock-hewn churches of Lalibela were declared a World Heritage Site in 1978.
Opening Times
Open every day from 8am to 12 noon and 2pm to 5.30pm.
Entrance Fees
The ticket includes entry to all eleven of Lalibela’s rock-hewn churches.
- Adult (age 14+) – $US50
- Child (age 9 – 13) – $US25
- Child (under 9) – free
Read more about our visit to the rock-hewn churches here or click the button below the photograph.
READ ABOUT OUR VISIT TO THE ROCK-HEWN CHURCHES OF LALIBELA
Take a Tour
While it is perfectly possible to explore Lalibela independently, why not book a tour and let someone else take care of the logistics?
Whenever we visit a new city, we try to book tours with local guides. There’s no better way to get under the skin of a place! We use Viator when we want to uncover interesting things to do in a new city. They’re easy to use and book with, and we’ve had some amazing experiences with them.
Check out these tours:
Don’t Miss Yemrehanna Kristos
Yemrehanna Kristos is one of Ethiopia’s best-preserved late-Aksumite buildings, but few tourists make the effort to visit. It is situated 45 kilometres from the town of Lalibela and takes a bone-shaking two hours in a 4WD or minibus along uneven roads. Although the journey is not the most comfortable you will ever make, the scenery en route is stunning. Alternatively, you can hire a guide and a mule and walk there. The 20-kilometre route takes about six hours to cover. Once you arrive at the site, you have a further 20-minute walk uphill to the church itself. All the effort is worth it, though, to see this incredible building.
Opening Times
8am – 5.30pm daily
Entrance Fee
- 300 Birr ($US10.50) per person
- 50 Birr to use a video camera
Construction
The church of Yemrehanna Kristos is built rather than excavated as the other churches in Lalibela are. It predates the town’s churches by about eighty years.
The first thing that strikes you when you approach the church, is that you can clearly see how it was constructed using alternating layers of wood and stone. Unbelievably, the whole church sits on a platform of panels made of olive wood, which help it to ‘float’ above the marshy ground. The entire building is built within a cave, making it dark and rather eerie.
Despite the intricate carving and stunning decoration inside the church, a feeling of unease pervades the atmosphere. This is reinforced when you happen upon a pile of mummified bodies, some of which are believed to be workmen who helped to build the church and others are pilgrims who purposefully came to the site to die.
No photography is allowed inside the church.
Abraham, the Ticket Seller
After visiting Yemrehanna Kristos, we spent some time chatting to Abraham who was in charge of the ticket office. He told us that he earns 400 Birr a month (less than the price of two entrance tickets!). With his parents dead, and no siblings to help him, he lives with his grandparents and supports them in their old age. He had such love and pride in his eyes as he described his ninety-year-old grandfather and told us about his stories of Ethiopia under Italian occupation. It was fascinating for us to hear, yet tinged with sadness because Abraham’s own life seems to be on hold. He can’t afford to marry and have a family whilst he is caring for his grandparents.
Before heading back to town, we enjoyed another Ethiopian coffee ceremony!
READ MORE ABOUT COFFEE IN ETHIOPIA
Spend an Evening in Ben Abeba, Ethiopia’s ‘Spaceship Restaurant’
This architectural gem of a restaurant situated on a hill on the edge of Lalibela should not be missed. It is a joint business venture between a retired Scottish school teacher and an Ethiopian entrepreneur. Together, they promote Ethiopian culture and provide valuable employment and training to local youngsters. The menu offers a delicious fusion of British and Ethiopian cuisines.
You can read more about the restaurant here, or click the button below the photograph.
READ ABOUT OUR VISIT TO BEN ABEBA, 'THE SPACESHIP RESTAURANT'
Hotels in Lalibela, Ethiopia
There is a good selection of hotels in Lalibela with prices to suit all pockets. The ones I have chosen here are all on the outskirts of the town and have consistently good customer reviews. Remember that you are in Africa and running water and electricity may not always be available!
Blue Nile Guest House
This is a great budget option with a double room for two people costing around $US25 per night. All rooms come equipped with private facilities and a TV and there is free wi-fi available throughout the hotel. Continental breakfast is available for an extra charge. There is also a kitchen which guests are able to use to prepare their own meals.
Check reviews and prices on Booking.com.
Panoramic View Hotel
This is where we stayed in Lalibela and I have to say it was probably the best hotel we had during our month-long trip around Ethiopia. The hotel is situated on the edge of town on a hill with commanding views of the surrounding countryside. All of the rooms have air conditioning, desk, private facilities, and balconies to best appreciate the stunning views. A good continental breakfast is included in the room rate. Expect to pay $US55 for two people in a double room per night.
Check reviews and prices on Booking.com.
Tukul Village
Tukul Village is a popular choice in Lalibela with a double room for two people costing around $US90 a night. All rooms are equipped with air-conditioning and hot tubs and have river or lake views. There is an on-site restaurant which offers dinner and breakfast. Each room also has its own kitchen with dishwasher and microwave oven, so it’s possible to self-cater.
Check reviews and prices on Booking.com.
Search Here for Other Accommodation in Ethiopia
Watch this Video about Lalibela and its Churches
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Thank you for this helpful guide! I don’t think I’ve come across a more comprehensive one while doing some research about Lalibela. It’s definitely going to come in handy in planning a trip there. Your photos and especially the video included in the post were enjoyable to see. It definitely made me look forward to visiting the Lalibela churches and experiencing it for myself. Happy travels!